Fixes & Mounting
Doors: Repair, Installation & Locks in Portland, OR & Vancouver, WA
Sticking doors fixed; interior, closet, barn, and entry doors installed with hinges, casing, and locks fitted — paint or stain on request, one door or the whole house.
What's Included in Door Repair, Installation & Locks
Doors in older Portland, OR and Vancouver, WA houses swell, sag, and scrape every winter. We repair the ones worth keeping — plane, shim, and rehang — and replace interior, closet, and entry doors that aren't, one door at a time or eight in a single project. The job ends turnkey with fitted hinges, casing, conventional knobs, levers, or deadbolts, weatherstripping, and paint or stain on request — on a door that actually closes square.
- Sticking and sagging door adjustment — planing, hinge resets, strike alignment
- Prehung and slab interior door installation
- Closet bypass and bifold door repair and replacement
- Barn door installation on your track hardware
- Entry and exterior door replacement
- Hinges, casing, and door stops fitted as part of the install
- Conventional knobs, levers, and deadbolts — Schlage, Kwikset, Yale — installed or replaced
- Weatherstripping, door sweeps, and thresholds
- Paint or stain for new doors — on request, quoted with the door work
Common Problems We Solve
The door sticks and scrapes every winter
Wet Northwest winters make wood doors drink moisture and grow. We reset loose hinges first, then plane the binding edge and seal it so next winter's swelling has room. Shaving wood without fixing the hinges just moves the problem.
The latch misses the strike and the door drifts open
A settled frame moves the latch a few millimeters off center. We adjust the hinges or reset the strike plate so the latch lands cleanly and the door stays shut without lifting or slamming.
Closet doors are off their track
Bypass rollers wear out and bifold pivots work loose. We adjust or replace rollers, pivots, and track, and align the panels so they glide and meet square instead of jumping the rail.
The entry door leaks cold air
Flattened weatherstripping, a worn sweep, or a threshold that no longer meets the door bottom. We replace the seals, adjust the threshold, and square the door in its frame so the gap closes for good.
How It Works
Confirm the plan and measure
We walk your door list, measure each opening for width, height, and thickness, and check the frames for square. That decides repair versus replace, and slab versus prehung — before anything is ordered.
Prep the opening
The old door comes off, the frame gets checked for square and soundness, and floors get covered. On replacements we confirm the new unit fits before the old jamb is disturbed.
Install, plane, and hang
Repairs get planed, shimmed, and rehung on reset hinges. Slabs are trimmed and bored to the existing frame; prehung units are shimmed plumb so the reveal is even all the way around.
Hardware, casing, seal, and test
Knobs, levers, and deadbolts go on last, weatherstripping and sweeps on exterior doors, casing and paint where the job calls for them. We cycle every door until the latch clicks without force — that's the pass mark.
Typical Projects & Pricing
Labor pricing. Materials are itemized in your estimate. Estimates are not final contracts.
What's Not Included
- Broken-lock repair, rekeying, lockouts, and key duplication — referred to a certified locksmith. We install and replace conventional locks and hardware as part of door work
- Smart-lock installation and app pairing — see Starlink, Smart Home & Security Cameras.
- Casing on its own, without door work — we replace casing only as part of a door job
- Pocket door rebuilds inside the wall — a framing project, quoted separately
What Affects the Price
- Repair versus replace
- Planing and rehanging an existing door is the cheapest path. Replacement adds the door itself plus fitting, boring, and casing time.
- Slab versus prehung
- A slab reuses your sound frame. Prehung replaces the jamb too — more labor for removal, shimming, and casing, but a fresh square start.
- Batch size
- Setup, tools, and haul-off happen once per visit, so the per-door rate drops when several doors are done in one project.
- Entry versus interior
- Exterior doors are heavier, need sealing against weather, and carry deadbolts and thresholds — more time per door than an interior swap.
- Hardware scope
- Reusing your hinges and knobs keeps cost down. New hinges, passage sets, or deadbolts add drilling and fitting time. A prehung install includes casing; on a slab swap, new casing and any paint or stain are quoted per door.
Door Repair, Installation & Locks — Frequently Asked Questions
Why do my doors stick every winter and how do you fix it?
Wet Northwest winters make wood doors swell, and settled frames make it worse. We start at the hinges — resetting them fixes many stickers without removing wood. If the door still binds, we plane the edge and seal it so it takes on less moisture next season.
Slab or prehung — which one do I need?
If your frame is square and solid, a slab is cheaper and less invasive — we trim and bore it to fit. If the jamb is cracked, out of square, or the hinge mortises are worn out, a prehung unit replaces the frame too. We check on site and tell you which before quoting.
My 1920s house has odd door sizes. Can you still replace them?
Yes. We measure every opening before ordering anything. Nonstandard openings usually mean trimming a stock door down to fit; some need a custom-sized door, which costs more and takes longer to arrive. We tell you which path each door needs up front, so there are no surprises mid-project.
Can you put a new lock on an old door?
Yes. We install or replace conventional knobs, levers, and deadbolts from Schlage, Kwikset, and Yale; older doors sometimes need the bore enlarged or a new deadbolt hole cut, which we handle. Broken-lock repair, rekeying, lockouts, and key duplication go to a certified locksmith. One condition: the door has to close square first, or the bolt will bind — so alignment is part of the install, not an extra.
Do you paint the new doors?
Yes, on request. Most replacement slabs come primed and ready to hang; if you want finish paint or stain, we quote it alongside the door work so the door, hinges, casing, lock, and finish land in one scheduled project with one crew.
How does batch pricing work for the whole house?
Setup and haul-off happen once, so the per-door rate drops when doors are batched. A single prehung interior door runs $349–549 hung and cased; eight interior doors replaced in one project start from $1,395. Send us the door count and a few photos and we'll price the whole set.
How much does it cost to replace an interior door?
Our labor runs $349–549 to hang and case a prehung interior door; a slab into a sound frame costs less. The door itself is itemized separately — hollow-core slabs cost far less than solid-core. If the old door just binds, planing and rehanging it runs $149–225.
What door materials hold up to Portland and Vancouver rain?
For entry doors, fiberglass and steel take wet winters with the least upkeep — they don't swell. Wood entry doors work under a covered porch, but every edge needs sealing, top and bottom included, or they drink moisture and stick. Inside, hollow-core is fine for most rooms; solid-core makes sense in bathrooms and wherever you want the sound damping.
Areas We Cover
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