Fixes & Mounting
Shower Door & Walk-In Glass Installation in Portland, OR & Vancouver, WA
Sliding, pivot, frameless, and walk-in glass installed plumb, sealed, and tested with the water running — old door hauled off, grab bars on request, fresh caulk on a clean joint.
What's Included in Shower Door Installation
A shower door is a precision fit on walls that are rarely flat. Across Portland, OR and Vancouver, WA we install sliding, bypass, pivot, and frameless shower doors and set fixed walk-in glass panels on the tub or shower base you already have — and we do the groundwork first: the old door and its track come off, the failed silicone is cut away, the walls are checked for plumb, and the new bead is left to cure before anyone turns the water on.
- Bypass and sliding shower doors for tubs and shower alcoves
- Pivot doors plus frameless and semi-frameless glass enclosures
- Fixed walk-in glass panels on wall channels, clamps, or a support bar
- Tear-out and haul-away of the old door, track, and curtain hardware
- Complete re-caulk: mildewed silicone cut away, joints cleaned and dried, fresh mildew-resistant bead
- Grab bars and fold-down shower seats fastened into framing or rated blocking
- Through-tile mounting of corner shelves and shower caddies
- Replacement sweeps, seals, rollers, and handles for doors you're keeping
Common Problems We Solve
Puddles outside the shower
Most of the time the glass is fine; the culprit is a flattened bottom sweep, an open seam where the frame meets the wall, or a door hung out of plumb that never quite latches. We level-check the walls and curb, re-shim the jamb, fit new sweeps and seals, then run the shower to make sure the floor stays dry.
A sliding door that keeps coming off its track
Rollers wear flat, top rails get bent by a hard shove, and a door set out of level drifts off its track. If parts are still made for your door, we swap the rollers and guides; if the frame is twisted or pitted with corrosion, a replacement door usually costs less than hunting for parts.
Dark staining along the caulk
Once mildew grows under silicone, no cleaner reaches it. The only fix is removal: we strip the bead to bare tile, dry the joint, lay a new mildew-resistant bead, and tell you exactly how long to stay out of the shower.
A frameless door that sags on its hinges
Thick frameless glass is heavy, and its hinges need something solid to bite into. When the original screws went into tile or drywall alone, we re-anchor them into framing or blocking and re-hang the door so it swings true and closes evenly against its seals.
How It Works
Measure and inspect
Width is measured at three heights, the walls and curb are checked with a level, and we look over the tile, grout, and existing caulk. Out-of-square openings are the norm. You'll hear from us up front whether a standard door will span the opening or whether you need a wider adjustment range or custom glass.
Pick the door, set the scope
Use the door you've already bought or let us help you choose one that fits your opening. Removal, re-caulking, and extras such as grab bars are settled before the first hole is drilled.
Tear out, prep, and set the door
The old door and silicone come off, surfaces are cleaned and dried, holes go through the tile with the right bit for the material, and the new door is set plumb with every anchor sealed so water can't track along the screws into the wall.
Seal, adjust, and run the water
The bead goes on, the door is tuned for an even close, and we spray down the glass and seams to confirm nothing escapes. Before we leave, you'll know how long the silicone needs before the first shower.
Typical Projects & Pricing
Installing a door begins at $249; re-caulking, grab bars, and leak repairs start at $149. Every figure is labor — bring the door yourself and that's all you pay. When we source the door or glass, the estimate shows it as its own line.
Labor pricing. Materials are itemized in your estimate. Estimates are not final contracts.
What's Not Included
- Plumbing of any kind — valves, faucets, drains, and shower kits or bases that tie into a drain are a licensed plumber's job, not ours
- Converting a tub to a shower or setting a new shower pan
- Custom-cut glass — it comes from a glass shop on a separate quote, and we install it when it arrives
- Re-tiling or re-waterproofing walls that have already failed
What Affects the Price
- Door type and weight
- A framed slider is a routine install; thick frameless glass calls for exact anchoring and usually a second pair of hands.
- How square the opening is
- Walls out of plumb mean shims, a door with more adjustment, or custom glass. Measuring before you buy saves you from a door that will never close tight.
- Wall material
- Ceramic drills fast; porcelain, natural stone, and fiberglass surrounds slow things down and need specific bits.
- What's coming out
- A clean old door is off in minutes. Corroded tracks, glued-down rails, and several generations of silicone take longer.
- Who buys the door
- Supply it yourself and pay for labor alone, or have us order it and see the cost itemized.
Shower Door Installation — Frequently Asked Questions
Can I buy my shower door at Home Depot or Lowe's and have you install it?
Yes — the majority of the doors we install come from Home Depot, Lowe's, Amazon, or Wayfair: DreamLine, Delta, Basco, and similar brands. Text us the model number and a photo of your opening before you buy and we'll confirm the fit.
Will you install a complete walk-in shower kit?
We handle the glass side: panels, doors, and enclosures on a tub or shower base that's already in place. If the kit comes with its own base, drain, or valve, the water connections belong to a licensed plumber, and we'll say so before you order.
How long does shower door installation take?
Plan on 2–4 hours for a framed door, old door removal included. A frameless enclosure can run most of a day.
When can I shower again?
Not until the silicone has cured — figure on 24 hours in a warm bathroom and a bit more in a cold one. We'll leave you the exact time for the product we used.
My walls aren't square. Can a standard door still work?
Usually. Most doors adjust about an inch to absorb an out-of-plumb wall. If yours is further out than that, we'll let you know before you place the order so you can pick a different model or go custom.
Won't drilling crack my tile?
Not when it's done right. We match the bit to the material — ceramic, porcelain, or stone — start slowly, and keep it cool. Every hole is sealed afterward so water can't get behind the tile.
Will you take the old shower door with you?
Yes. Tear-out and haul-away of the old door, track, and curtain rod is available on every install.
Is a leaking shower door worth repairing, or should I replace it?
Often it's worth repairing. Fresh sweeps, seals, rollers, and a re-caulk fix most leaks. If the frame is bent or corroded, we'll show you why replacement is the smarter buy.
Areas We Cover
Free estimate
Request a Free Shower Door & Walk-In Glass Installation Estimate
Tell us what you need and we'll get back to you with a quote. Photos welcome.