Door, Hardware & Smart Lock Setup in Portland & Vancouver WA
Door adjustments, hardware replacement, weather stripping, and smart lock setup.
Sticking doors adjusted, hardware swapped, weather stripping replaced, and smart locks installed and paired in the app — interior, entry, and cabinet hardware handled cleanly.
What's Included
- Door adjustment & alignment
- Hardware & smart lock install
- Cabinet hardware installation
- Weather stripping
- Door closer installation
- Smart lock app setup
What We Install & Repair
Knobs, levers, deadbolts, handlesets, and smart locks — fitted to doors that actually close properly, because on a binding door no lock works well, smart or otherwise. We sort the door and strike first and fit hardware second. One thing we are not: locksmiths. We do not do emergency lockouts and we do not rekey — when a job calls for either, we say so and point you to one.
- Knob, lever, deadbolt, and handleset replacement
- Smart lock installation and app setup
- Strike plate and latch alignment
- Door and hinge adjustment
- Weather stripping and door sweeps
- Door closers and cabinet hardware
Common Problems We Solve
You have to lift or shoulder the door to throw the deadbolt.
The bolt and the strike opening no longer line up — the house settled, the hinges sagged, or both. We adjust the hinges and relocate or open up the strike until the bolt throws with two fingers.
The smart lock motor grinds, retries, and reports jammed.
The motor is doing what your wrist used to: forcing a misaligned bolt. Motors give up where hands muscle through, so we cure the binding first — after that, most 'defective' smart locks turn out to be fine.
The new handleset does not fit the holes in the old door.
Plenty of original doors in older Portland neighborhoods pre-date the modern standard bore. Depending on what is there, we enlarge the bore with a jig, adjust for backset, or steer you to hardware made for retrofit — measured before anything is ordered.
The front door swells shut every wet season.
Wood moves with our winters, especially where an edge was never sealed. We plane the binding spot, ease the strike if needed, and recommend sealing the raw edges so next November is not a repeat.
How It Works
Check the door before the hardware
Hinges, gaps, latch engagement, bore and backset measurements — a few minutes of assessment that determines whether this is a straight swap or an alignment job with a swap at the end.
True up the alignment
Hinges tightened or shimmed, strikes moved or mortised, binding edges eased — until the door closes with a push and latches without persuasion.
Fit the hardware
New hardware installed square and snug: latch and bolt centered in their strikes, screws into sound wood, levers and thumb-turns moving freely through their full travel.
Pair, program, hand over
Smart locks get connected to the app, codes set, auto-lock tuned so it does not fight a storm door, and family members added; mechanical installs get a function test on every latch and key before we leave.
What's Not Included
- Rekeying or master keying — changing what key a cylinder accepts is locksmith work, and a good locksmith is the right call for it.
- Lockouts — we do not open doors you are locked out of; that call goes to a locksmith, deliberately not to us.
- New doors and frames — hanging a slab or replacing a rotted jamb is a door-installation job we quote separately from a hardware visit.
- Commercial panic hardware and fire-rated door assemblies — those carry requirements a commercial door specialist should handle.
What Affects the Price
- Doors and pieces of hardware
- A single deadbolt swap is the floor; a whole-house hardware refresh is priced by the door and gets faster per door as we go.
- Alignment work required
- A true door needs none; a settled one may need hinge, strike, and edge work before the new hardware can go on.
- Bore and backset fit
- Standard prep takes minutes; non-standard or antique prep means boring, mortising, or retrofit hardware, which takes real bench time.
- Hardware type
- A passage knob is quick; a two-piece handleset or a smart lock with app setup and code programming sits at the other end of the visit.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will a smart lock fit my existing door?
If the door has a standard 2-1/8 inch bore and common backset, almost certainly. Older and original doors are the wild cards — undersized bores, thick slabs, mortise locks — some need prep work or a retrofit-friendly model. We measure first so the lock you buy fits.
Keypad, Bluetooth, or Wi-Fi — what actually matters in a smart lock?
Keypad-only models are the simplest and least to go wrong. Bluetooth adds phone unlocking at the door; Wi-Fi — built in or via a bridge — adds remote access and codes for deliveries, at the cost of battery drain.
My deadbolt only sticks in winter — is the lock wearing out?
Probably not. Seasonal sticking is the door swelling in wet weather and pinching the bolt's path, which no replacement lock cures. Easing the strike and sealing the door edges fixes the cause; a squirt of proper lock lubricant handles the rest.
How do smart locks hold up on an exposed door in the rain?
Fine under a porch or storm door; a fully exposed door wants a model with a gasketed, weather-rated exterior. Cold snaps also knock battery life down, so we set low-battery alerts during setup — the lock warns you weeks before it dies.
Can you make all my doors work on one key?
Not by altering cylinders — matching existing locks to a single key is rekeying, which is locksmith work. We can install a keyed-alike set: same-brand locks bought together that ship on one key. If the current hardware is staying, a locksmith is the honest answer.
Areas We Cover
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