Fence & Gate Repair in Portland, OR & Vancouver, WA
Sagging gates rehung, leaning posts fixed, broken boards replaced — repair what's broken, keep what isn't.
Fence and gate problems fixed at the actual failure point — rotted posts replaced or braced, gates rehung square with proper hardware, and broken boards swapped so the fence you have keeps working instead of getting rebuilt.
What's Included
- Sagging gate repair
- Post repair & replacement
- Board & picket replacement
- Hinge & latch hardware
- Gate alignment & bracing
- Small section rebuilds
What We Install & Repair
Cedar fences in this climate fail from the bottom up. Boards can look fine for decades while posts rot at the soil line, where wet ground keeps the wood damp most of the year — so a leaning fence is usually one or two dead posts, not a dead fence. We repair at the failure point: posts braced or replaced, gates rehung square, boards swapped, small sections rebuilt. The goal is keeping your fence working, not selling you a new one.
- Leaning post correction and replacement
- Post sistering and steel spur repairs
- Full post resets in new concrete
- Board and picket replacement
- Gate rehanging, hinges, latches, and anti-sag hardware
- Small section rebuilds after storm damage
Common Problems We Solve
A fence leaning after a wet winter
Saturated soil plus wind pushes on the whole panel, and posts rotted at grade give way. We push-test each post — often two or three explain a whole leaning run — and repair those, not the entire fence.
A gate that drags, scrapes, or will not latch
Gates sag from hinge wear, frame racking, or the hinge post tipping. The fix matches the cause: heavier hinges, an anti-sag kit, latch realignment — or the post first, because no hinge cures a leaning post.
Panels blown down in a winter storm
We sort what failed: a panel that let go of sound posts gets reframed and rehung; posts snapped at the rot line get replaced. Salvageable boards are reused to keep the repair from standing out.
Broken, warped, or popped boards
Boards replaced and fastened with exterior screws instead of the smooth-shank nails that let the originals pop loose. Latches that bind in winter get aligned for cedar's seasonal swelling.
How It Works
Find what actually failed
We walk the fence and test posts individually before quoting. Three failed posts versus a failed fence is the difference between a repair and a rebuild, and you should know which you have.
Pick the right post fix
A post sound above grade can be sistered or get a steel spur alongside the rotten base — faster, cheaper, solid when done right. A post that is gone, or carrying a gate, gets replaced: old footing out, new post plumb in fresh concrete.
Structure first, surface second
Posts and rails come before boards — reversing that order is how fences get repaired twice. Rebuilt sections match existing rail heights and board spacing.
Square the gates and hand it over
Gates rehung plumb with hardware sized for their weight, latches aligned for seasonal swelling, everything swing-tested. Anything about to fail next — a marginal post, a soft rail — gets pointed out.
What's Not Included
- Full fence replacement — long new runs are a different project with different economics. If your fence is past saving, we say so rather than sell repairs it cannot hold.
- Property-line questions — we repair the fence where it stands; where it should stand is for a survey and the neighbors.
- Retaining walls and grade changes — a fence leaning because the slope is moving needs earthwork first.
- Staining the whole fence — quoted separately once repairs are done.
What Affects the Price
- Post count and repair type
- Posts drive the price more than boards. A steel spur costs less than a full reset, and each additional post in the same visit costs less than the first.
- Concrete work
- Breaking a rotted post out of an old footing is the slow part of a reset — posts in bare soil come out in minutes, footings do not.
- Panels versus boards
- Swapping individual boards is quick per piece; reframing and rehanging a blown-down section involves rails, alignment, and more material.
- Gate hardware
- A latch adjustment and a rebuilt gate with heavy-duty hinges and an anti-sag kit sit at opposite ends of the range.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I repair or replace a leaning fence?
Test what failed first. If boards and rails are sound and the lean traces to a few rotted posts — the usual case with cedar here — repair wins on cost. Replacement makes sense when most posts are gone and boards are brittle. We give that assessment straight, including when a repair is not worth the money.
Will new boards match my old weathered cedar?
Not immediately. Fresh cedar is warm and pink; weathered cedar is silver-gray, and sun and rain close most of the gap within a season or two. Where looks matter now, we can shuffle boards so weathered ones face the street, or stain the repaired section — but time is the honest fix.
How long does a post replacement take?
Breaking out the old footing and setting the new post usually takes under an hour per post. The wait is the concrete: we brace new posts and come back to hang gates or re-tension panels after a proper cure.
Can you fix just the gate?
Yes — gate-only calls are common, and worth booking early because a dragging gate gets worse. One check first: if the sag is really the hinge post tipping, new hinges buy a season at best. We tell you which problem you have before fixing either.
A storm knocked part of my fence down — what should I do first?
Move fallen panels off the lawn so the boards stay dry, and photograph everything first if you plan an insurance claim. Then send us photos; blown-down sections are usually a reframe or a couple of new posts, not a rebuild.
Areas We Cover
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